Leh’s Anatomy

Drops of sweat slid from my  brow and bounced off the  back of my latex-gloved hands as they clutched the hospital bed.  I counted along with the team through my dirty and dampened surgical mask,  “Un, deuz, trois… omnivar!”  The Frenchmen and I  heaved our might behind the  bed  and raced out of the  ward, … Continue reading

The Flash Floods of Leh (part 2)

Day 2 : Mob mentality and panicked pandemonium. India never plays by the rules, and states of Emergency seem to be  no exception. My Swiss friend Jocelyn and I had spent a night under stormy skies on the mountain, where we had luckily met our good friend Rami. He was an Israeli army medic who … Continue reading

The Flash Floods in Leh (Part 1)

Its hard to blog when you are slipping in and out of a state of Nirvana through yoga and trekking bliss as I have since my last post, but nothing brings one back down to earth like… earth.  Water soil and stone pushed to deadly speeds ravaging all in their wake.  Mud tossing cars and … Continue reading

Agra-phobia

Juggling her bags and children, a woman slips on her pink silk sari and  falls out of a moving  train, her infant flying from her arms.   A stone-throwing mob gathers  in the street to watch policemen play judge, jury and executioner .   A wiry holy man in a loin cloth, filthy dreadlocks and … Continue reading

Recipe for Delhi Belly

India.  Everything is so new, and yet instantly familiar all at once.  A few days in Delhi and I am spewing my guts out.  However, it’s not just the spicy food and questionable hygiene.  Delhi seems to combine the best of the worst of all my travels and places I have been.   Some sort of … Continue reading

The Ring of Fire: the sulfur mines of Mt. Ijen, Java

My motivation behind visiting Mt. Ijen was to see one of Java’s most beautiful volcanic lakes, not to watch human pack mules  toil away at one of the worst jobs on earth.  However, watching  the intense labor and  man’s battle with nature  made more of an impression on me than the lake ever could.      If the sunrise view at Mount … Continue reading

The Borobudur and Bromo Debacle, Java

The first stop on the jaunt around Java was it’s most famous temple,  Borobudur.   It’s the largest Buddhist temple in the world, and has been on my “to see” list for ages.  This monument has survived centuries of  abandonment under volcanic ash and jungle growth, and even a series of terrorist attacks.   Whether it … Continue reading

Botched Beginnings

In the stifling, muggy smoke permeating the overnight train from  Jakarta to Yogjakarta the vendors are selling a variety of wares from the usual snacks, newspapers, and fans to more creative items like  reading glasses, caged birds and rubik’s cubes.  Is this entrepreneurship what they meant by “business class?” In the tropical heat, I couldn’t … Continue reading